Tom's recent outings

by Steve Dunning
Posted: 20th Aug 2015

UK antics

I didn't get much chance to get out on the grit this season due a variety of different factors. As we reached June it clearly wasn't prime time for the grit but I didn't fancy the Limestone yet. Recently Ned has added a few new climbs at Burbage South and with the crag being in the shade most the day, you can just about get away with climbing there at this time of year as long as there is a decent wind. A few weeks ago, I was able to repeat Black Astroid, a quality compression climb added by Ned weighing in at 7c+ and finished a classic known as Little Rascal 7c+/8a at the very end of Burbage South.
I further added a new climb there which a called Big Gay Bear 7c. This is a cool overhung scoop climb that involves big moves up big flat edges. The climb joins a trad route half way up called Big Bad Wolf hence the name BGB. I've had a few people tell me they don't agree with the name but I feel obliged not to change as it was meant in a light hearted way.

Next up was Fire in the Rain 8b/8b+, a climb at Anston Stones developed by Mike Adams. This feels like one of the harder things I have climbed in a while. It involves crimping really hard (obviously, it's limestone), lots a body tension and wee bit of power endurance. A collection of random trips over the years finally resulted in the footage you see beneath. I was pretty made up with this one.

Tom Newman - Fire in the Rain 8B from Ace Film and Photography on Vimeo.

America Trip

In a nutshell, this trip was pretty awesome. A lot my climbing buddies all seemed a little shocked when they realised the sole focus of my trip to America was not climbing. My girlfriend Becca doesn't climb, which at times can be challenging but also really refreshing. She encouraged me to do things on this trip that I usually wouldn't have done if I'd just gone away with my climbing mates and for that, I'm grateful. It's nice to occasionally be reminded that there are other fun things to do except climb a bit of rock (I still like climbing rocks though). The trip varied from walking and climbing in the Rockies and Yosemite, to the hustle and bustle of LA and San Fran, to whale watching in Monterey and finally to drinking and partying in Vegas. All in all a pretty eclectic trip. Thanks Bec :)

Bierstadt Lake

Alright views at Emerland Lake

Me topping out on Veritas, a classic 8a of RMNP

Pretty sure one of your 5 a day is in here somewhere :/

Yosemite almost looking as good as Yorkshire

Me attempting to boulder in the blistering heat

Back to Blighty


Arriving back in the UK psyche was high. I thought I'd be feeling a bit crap after 3 weeks of minimal climbing, - however, after a week of pottering around I felt quite good to go again.
I started off with Fat Lip 8B. This thing took me a couple of sessions to get done because of a knacky heel hook that took me a while to figure out. Once I managed to suss it, it went down.

I'd also set my sites on Dan Varian's Dandelion Mind. It's a great steep climb with an awesome sequence which made a nice change to your 2D style that limestone usually lends itself to! Anyway, my first session on it went okay but I struggled to make the knee bar work. My attempts resulted in multiple arse rockets towards the ground. My second session was a resounding success (to my surprise). I went back feeling fresher, pulled the knee pad stupidly tight around leg which allowed the knee bar to become a lot more effective and less strength dependant. Bam, to the top, I was still a bit surprised.
From here I drove back to Raven Tor to meet me friend Dave and give him his knee pad back. My plan was to just give it back to him then drive on but before that had happened, my boots were back on and I was at the start of Fat Lip again. I decided to give it one go with the plan of going up an alternate finish. I pulled on....and went straight to the top. A new alternative was created at the Tor which is something I'm not so proud of. Non the less I named it Fat Choice 8B. A good day.

Instagram shot of me on trying to smash Fat Lip 8b

Another one of Fat Lip. Photo courtesy of Josh Willett

A week later I had planned to go and try Isle Of Wonder in Wales but got rained off. The rain resulted in the phone footage you see below. We had to abort to Pariselle's Cave where I fluked my way up the super burly Louis Armstrong 8B.

Louis Armstrong 8B from Tom Newman on Vimeo.

Tick list from June onwards, because everyone loves a good tick list/brag

Big Gay Bear 7C FA
Black Asteroid 7C+
Little Rascal SS 7C+/8A
Fire In The Rain 8B/+
Veritas 8A
Fat Lip 8B
Fat Choice 8B FA
Dandelion Mind 8B
Louis Armstrong 8B
Enter The Dragon 8A+
Roofs Manoeuvre 8A
Survival of the Fattest 8A

 

 

 

 

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