NEWS

Blocbuster 2018 Writeup and Results

by Steve Dunning
Posted: 21st Nov 2018

Blocbuster 2018 Writeup and Results

 

‘Probably the best Blocbuster so far’

We had an absolute blast setting this competition up and running it all for you on the day. It was great to see so many happy, smiling people down and trying their hardest on another set of competition boulders from the setting team of Alex Fry, Rob Haigh, Archie Cameron-Blackie, Andrew Cherry, and Beth Garratt.

It’s always good to see the bright luminous holds up on the wall from manufacturers all around the world. This year was no exception, with some brilliant problems cunningly devised to separate the competitors in the Senior qualifiers and Junior open.

After a morning of climbing from 10-2pm we took in all the scores and had our junior winners to announce.

Junior Results

7-11 Boys

  1.  Sam Hammond
  2.  Max Dalton
  3.  Oliver Knox-Renshaw

 

7-11 Girls

  1.  Aether Blake
  2.  Lily Hammond
  3.  Maya Hermiston

 

12-15 Boys

  1.  Jamie Bassi
  2.  Dom Donnell
  3.  Fergus Woolley

 

12-15 Girls

  1.  Amber Pheasant
  2.  Emma Edwards
  3.  Jessica Claxton-Daniels

 

After this we had a bumper raffle with a generous array of prizes from our event sponsors – Black Diamond and Scarpa. The big prizes were undoubtedly the Black Diamond Bouldering Pad and pair of Scarpa shoes that were won by some very happy attendants!

 

Finals

With the finalists in isolation we could set to work on preparing the competition wall for the finals. Stripping qualifications blocs and getting the final 3 men and women’s problems in place. We also set up our line of lighting - kindly provided to us by Nottingham Disco and PA.

Bloc 1

Bloc 1 for the men was a crunchy number, with dynamic and powerful moves up a set of flatholds shapes on the left hand side of the wall. As competitors came out and made their attempts, it soon became clear that although there were several different ways through the initial couple of moves, the top sequence was too much for all but the most experienced of competitors. Eventually our top two qualifiers – WC Semi Finalist Billy Ridal, and WC Finalist Nathan Phillips showed their quality by flashing this tricky number.

The women’s problem involved a powerful, and tricky to hold dyno from two slopers to start, followed by a fiendish mantle/groove/squirmfest/slab topout that once again separated the good from the great. Diane Jeffery initially started very well, using some good heelhook beta and ‘technical knees’ to get into the groove, but couldn’t quite reach the top hold from the awkward position. No such problems for Hannah Slaney and Emily Phillips though, who cruised on and each gained a top.

Bloc 2

Bloc 2 for the men was the an incredibly powerful problem revolving around a new set of dual texture Scarpa volumes. Tricky moves using a clamp on an initial foothold resolved into a series of toe-hooks and out of balance manoeuvring in the upper section. While the bottom proved to much for some of the earlier competitors, the upper was enough to separate the quality of Billy, Nathan and Andrew Mawhinney – with Billy and Andrew not quite able to work out a functional sequence past the zone hold.

Womens’ 2 revolved around some bubble wrap texture holds and strung out positions to force a dynamic and droppable move into the upper section. One again it seemed as though Alex Fry had absolutely nailed the difficulty with about half the competitors struggling to reach the higher moves, one or two dropping it after the zone, and Junior World Champion Hannah Slaney just eking out the top section top put her in good standing with 1 bloc to go.

Bloc 3

Bloc 3 for the men looked to be the hardest bloc from the final, with only a few of the men even reaching the zone. Heinous moves in the roof – pressing out backwards into a large sloper, rotating 360, and then trying to continue onwards seemed to be a little too much for the climbers after a full day of pulling hard. After 1 attempt, most of the men looked absolutely knackered, and couldn’t reach their first attempt high points.

For the women – a set of pink slopers, pinches, and high feet from x-cult climbing made up the third bloc. A tricky start with a powerful toe hooking position started them off before asking them to work their way around the vague shapes above. Quick flashes from Hannah and Emily settled the top two spaces, while Zoe Peetermans’ ascent after a number of agonisingly close attempts left her with the final spot on the podium.

Finals Results

Mens Open

  1.  Nathan Phillips
  2.  Billy Ridal
  3.  Andrew Mawhinney
  4.  Sammy Oakes
  5.  Kody Bradley

Womens Open

  1.  Hannah Slaney
  2.  Emily Phillips
  3.  Zoe Peetermans
  4.  Diane Jeffery
  5.  Emelia Essex

Thanks


Thanks to our sponsors – Black Diamond and Scarpa UK for their help in running the event.
Thanks to Nottingham Disco and PA for providing their lighting system for the final.
And finally one big thanks to everyone that came down and made the day so much fun.

Full Results

Full results can be found HERE

 

Photos and Video

Check out our facebook and Instagram for pictures and competition video to come!